|
Advance Granular Ant Bait - 12 oz
Ants love Advance; they eat it and take it back to their colony, wiping out the ants at home as well as the foragers.
ADVANCE CARPENTER ANT BAIT KILLS: Carpenter ants and many common varieties of ants such as Argentine, Bigheaded, Crazy, Field, Fire, Little Black, Pavement, Pharaoh, Odorous, House and Thief Ants
Be sure to browse all of our ant control products
|
|
$28.75 |
|
MaxForce Ant Trap Discs - 24 per bag
Patented bait formulation which kills Pharaoh ants and other common ants: Argentine, Carpenter, Crazy, Pavement, Cornfield, Odorous, Acrobat, and Thief ants
Attracts foraging worker ants which feed on the bait and take some of it back to their nest, where they pass it on to destroy the queen and the entire colony
Will kill both adult and larval ant forms
|
|
$34.45 |
|
$43.45 |
|
INDOOR AND OUTDOOR ANT PESTS |
|
Suspend SC Liquid Concentrate - 1 Pint
DESCRIPTION: SuspendŽ SC Insecticide is a suspended concentrate containing Deltamethrin. Suspend is labeled to control a wide range of pests such as Ants, Firebrats, Gnats, Midges, Centipedes, Millipedes, Pantry Pests, Silverfish, Bees, Bedbugs, Carpet Beetles, Cockroaches, Crickets, Fleas, Flies, Hornets, Killer Bees, Lice, Mosquitoes, Pillbugs, Scorpions, Sowbugs, Spiders, Ticks, Yellowjackets, Wasps, Termites (localized control), and Carpenter Ants. SuspendŽ SC Insecticide is an prefered general purpose perimeter pesticide.
DIRECTIONS: Apply to exterior foundation and at all entry points such as windows, doors, etc.
Always read & follow the label directions! Active Ingredient: Delatramethrin - 4.75%
1 pint makes up to 32 gallons of finished spray.
|
|
For more products see our Outdoor Products Page |
|
CARPENTER ANTS
Biology and Habits Carpenter ants, vary in size and color but are usually large (1/4-1/2 inch) and blackish. Occasionally, swarms of winged carpenter ant reproductives will emerge inside a home. Carpenter ant swarms usually occur in the spring and are a sure sign that a colony is nesting somewhere inside the structure. Winged carpenter ants can be distinguished from termites by their larger size and shape of their antennae, waist and wings.
Besides being objectionable by their presence, carpenter ants damage wood by hollowing it out for nesting. They excavate galleries in wood which have a smooth, sandpapered appearance. Wood which has been damaged by carpenter ants contains no mud-like material, as is the case with termites. Shredded fragments of wood, similar in appearance to coarse sawdust, are ejected from the galleries through preexisting cracks or slits made by the ants. When such accumulations are found (typically containing dead ants and bits of insects which the carpenter ants have eaten), it's a good indication that a carpenter ant nest is nearby. Oftentimes, however, the excavated sawdust remains hidden behind a wall or in some other concealed area.
Carpenter ants nest in both moist and dry wood, but prefer wood which is moist. Consequently, the nests are more likely to be found in wood dampened by water leaks, such as around sinks, bathtubs, poorly sealed windows/ door frames, roof leaks and poorly flashed chimneys. Nests are especially common in moist, hollow spaces such as the wall void behind a dishwasher, or in a hollow porch column. Since there often will be no external signs of damage, probing the wood with a screwdriver helps reveal the excavated galleries. Another technique for locating hidden nests is to tap along baseboards and other wood surfaces with the blunt end of a screwdriver, listening for the hollow sound of damaged wood. If a nest is nearby, carpenter ants often will respond by making a " rustling" sound within the nest, similar to the crinkling of cellophane.
Carpenter ants may establish nests in a number of different locations. It is important to realize that these locations can be either inside or outside the structure. Carpenter ants actually construct two different kinds of nests: parent colonies which, when mature, contain an egg-laying queen, brood and 2000 or more worker ants, and satellite colonies which may have large numbers of worker ants but no queen, eggs or young larvae. The carpenter ants inside a home may have originated from the parent colony or from one or more satellite nests. For example, the ants may be coming from the parent nest located outdoors in a tree stump, landscape timber or woodpile, or from one or more satellite nests hidden behind a wall in the kitchen or bathroom, or perhaps from wood dampened by a roof leak in the attic.
The extent and potential damage to a home depends on how many nests are actually present within the structure, and how long the infestation has been active. Although large carpenter ant colonies are capable of causing structural damage, the damage is not normally as serious as that from termites. In some cases, the damage may be relatively insignificant, but this can only be determined by locating and exposing the nest area.
Control The best way to control carpenter ants is to find and destroy the nests. This is often easier said than done. Recent studies have shown that carpenter ants follow distinct scent trails between the satellite colonies and the parent nest. Carpenter ants also rely on scent trails to recruit their nestmates to food. With patience and a little effort, homeowners can use this trailing behavior displayed by carpenter ants to locate and eliminate the nests.
When carpenter ants are observed, don't spray them; instead, feed the ants small dabs of diluted honey placed onto the back (nonsticky side) of pieces of masking tape. The best time to do this is late at night since this is when carpenter ants are most active. After the ants have fed on the honey, follow them on their journey back to their nest. Be patient-- eventually the ants will disappear behind a baseboard, cabinet, or into some other concealed location such as the hollow space (void) within a wall, door casing, or porch column.
Treat wall voids and other hidden spaces where ants are entering by carefully drilling a series of small (1/8 inch) holes and puffing boric acid (available at most hardware stores) into the suspected nest areas. The boric acid powder will disperse in the hidden void and contact and kill the ants. If you suspect the nest is in a wall, drill and treat at least 3-6 feet on either side of where ants are entering so as to maximize the chances of contacting the nest. Carpenter ants prefer to travel along wires, pipes and edges. If you suspect the nest location is in a wall, also treat behind pipe collars and behind --not in-- the junction box for electrical switch plates/receptacles. NEVER SPRAY LIQUIDS OR INSERT METAL-TIPPED DEVICES AROUND ELECTRICAL OUTLETS!).
As noted earlier, carpenter ants seen in the home may actually be nesting outdoors, foraging indoors for food and/or moisture. Consequently, the homeowner may end up following the ants they have baited with honey out of the house and into the yard, possibly to a nest located in a stump, or under a log or railroad tie. Once the outdoor nest is discovered, treatment can be performed by spraying or drenching the nest with an insecticide such as carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon, or chlorpyrifos (Dursban). If outdoor nests are suspected, the homeowner should also inspect around the foundation of the building at night with a flashlight, especially around doors, weep holes and openings such as where utility pipes and wires enter the structure. The baiting approach using honey can also be used to trace carpenter ants which are foraging outdoors back to their nest.
Tips When Calling a Professional Oftentimes, it will be difficult or impossible to locate and destroy the carpenter ant nest(s). In this case, the homeowner may wish to call a professional pest control operator. Pest control companies approach carpenter ant problems differently. Some attempt to locate the nest and selectively treat only in specific areas. Other companies take more of a "shot-gun" approach, drilling and dusting as many potential wall voids and nesting sites as possible. Most companies also apply a perimeter spray treatment around the outside foundation of the home in an effort to temporarily prevent reinvasion. The approach which should not be used is simply to spray each month where carpenter ants are seen. If no effort is made to locate the nest(s) or probable nest areas, the problem will most likely continue. Typically, there will be wide differences in price depending on the company and amount of effort expended. Since carpenter ant problems are not always solved on the first attempt, the type of guarantee and reputation of the company should be factored into the purchasing decision.
Carpenter Ant Prevention
A number of steps can be taken by homeowners to reduce the potential for future carpenter ant problems.
1. Correct roof leaks, plumbing leaks and other moisture problems which will attract carpenter ants.
2. Eliminate wood-to-ground contact such as where landscaping has moved soil or mulch up against the wood siding of a home.
3. Clip back tree limbs and vegetation touching the roof or siding of the house. Limbs and branches serve as "bridges" between carpenter ants nesting in a dead tree limb and the structure.
4. Seal cracks and openings in the foundation, especially where utility pipes and wires enter from the outside.
5. Stack firewood away from the foundation and elevate it off the ground. Never store firewood in the garage or other areas of the home, as firewood is a prime nesting area for carpenter ants. |
|
In some areas of the country, carpenter ants (wood ants) cause more damage to structures than termites. They are difficult insects to control and can cause extensive damage to wood members in a fairly short period of time. Carpenter ants do not actually eat wood but excavate galleries within it to use as nesting sites. Foraging activity can occur at any time of day but usually peaks at night. When foraging inside houses, carpenter ants are attracted to sweets, meat, grease and fat.
A carpenter ant colony is usually formed by a queen who begins a nest in a piece of old buried wood or in a partially decayed tree or stump. In mature infestations, there may be as many as ten satellite colonies linked to the parent colony by trails. There is a frequent exchange of workers between these satellite colonies and the main nest. Colonies normally do not produce winged reproductive forms until they are at least three to six years old with emergence of swarmers typically occurring from May through July.
The most common way in which homes become infested is through emigration of an existing colony. Houses located near wooded areas or brush covered vacant lots are good candidates for infestation. Carpenter ant colonies are inclined to move if they are disturbed, as often happens during construction. Thus, new homes or those surrounding a new building lot present likely locations for attack.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inspecting For Carpenter Ants Some Common Signs of Carpenter Ant Infestations:
Frass, which is made up of wood shavings, bits of soil, dead ants and parts of insects. This material is often piled up outside of nest openings and found in spider webs and window sills. Small windows or slit-like openings that carpenter ants cut into infested wood. These windows are actually "garbage chutes" which are used to dispose of frass or unwanted materials. Swarmers are the winged reproductives that take flight in the spring. Look for them trapped in spider webs, on window ledges or in light fixtures. Worker carpenter ants are active mostly at night, so you may not see any activity during normal working hours. Even if you do, it does not mean that the nest is nearby. Worker ants can travel up to the length of a football field booking food. Clicking or rustling sounds can sometimes be heard coming from carpenter ant nests. If you identify a potential nest site, try tapping against it with a screwdriver. You may hear a response -- the clicking of alarmed ants. Wood damaged by carpenter ants contains galleries that are very clean and smooth. The first sign of a carpenter ant infestation is usually the sighting of numerous workers throughout the home; occupants often complain of big black ants. However, the presence of workers alone is not conclusive evidence that a colony is established within a structure. Carpenter ant workers tend to roam far and wide looking for food, and some transient workers are sure to enter any home located in a wooded area. Signs of an active infestation include the presence of fibrous sawdust beneath slit-like openings in wood members and faint, rustling noises in walls and woodwork. A positive indication that an active, mature infestation is present is the emergence of large winged ants from walls, ceilings, or crawl spaces.
Carpenter ant galleries in wood have smooth surfaces and can be differentiated from subterranean termite damage by the absence of "mud" in the galleries. Ants normally excavate wood that has been softened by decay or other insects, however, they will tunnel into sound wood when conditions are favorable. Nests and galleries may be located a considerable distance from the point or points of entry. In addition to structural lumber, sites such as hollow-core doors, window headers, wall voids, and foam panels are particularly attractive to carpenter ants.
Carpenter ants often enter homes through openings such as foundation or attic vents, cracks, plumbing holes, entrances for telephone and electric wires, etc. One thing to look for during an inspection are tree branches that may be just above or in contact with the roof. Firewood piles are prime nesting sites and should be treated with an appropriately labeled pesticide such as Advance Carpenter Ant Bait, Suspend SC, Talstar Concentrate or Cynoff. Advance Carpenter Ant Bait is an ant bait that is scattered around piles of wood, around structures or in the home. (Also see: Carpenter Ant Baits, Maxforce Ant Baits, Carpenter Ant Inspection.) Suspend SC, Talstar Concentrate and Cynoff are excellent pesticides used for immediate kill and long term control of carpenter ants and many other insect pests. If damage to fire wood is extensive, simply dispose of the wood.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carpenter Ant Control Methods Mechanical Modifications Pesticide Applications
Mechanical Modifications
The first step in carpenter ant control should always include mechanical modifications to the structure and environment. The object is to reduce the avenues available for carpenter ants to enter a home or structure, as well as removing possible food and water sources.
If any tree limbs are in contact with the roof, cut them back. Carpenter ants can easily drop to a structure from tree limbs as high as five feet above the roof.
Move firewood away from the house. Keep firewood elevated so as not to have direct contact with the soil. This will protect it from other wood destroying organisms (termites, decay, fungus) besides carpenter ants.
Seal cracks along foundations, siding, windows and doors with caulk and install fine mesh screens over crawl space and attic vents.
Insects need water in addition to food and eliminating sources of water will make an area less attractive to carpenter ants. If necessary, fix plumbing leaks, reroute air conditioner drains and make sure sprinkler heads are properly adjusted.
Pesticide Applications for Carpenter Ants
There are basically four methods of pesticide application used for controlling active infestations of carpenter ants: exterior perimeter treatments, interior void treatments, treating the infested wood and baiting.
Perimeter Insecticide Treatments
The most commonly used method for controlling carpenter ants is treating the perimeter of a home with a dust or spray. There are several products available for this type of application, but Suspend SC, Talstar Concentrate and Cynoff WP are the best. When used in accordance with their labels they work well. However, these treatments do not keep ants from entering a home from overhead trees and power lines. Also, as a stand alone treatment, they rarely eliminate ants inside voids and walls.
Top of Page
Interior Void Treatments Crusader Duster Delta Dust Drione Dust Foam
The treatment of interior wall voids has become more popular with the availability of insecticide dusts and the introduction of foaming applications. The efficacy of dusts depend on ants ignoring the presence of the dry insecticides and walking through them, contaminating the ants' bodies in the process. Ants then ingest the insecticide while grooming. (Ants, carpenter ants groom themselves and each other.) If dusts are not applied properly, ants and other insects simply detour around the insecticide. To apply dusts properly, an electric duster or bellows duster (such as the Crusader Duster) must be used. You need to use either Drione Dust or Delta Dust for carpenter ant infestations of interior wall voids. Drione Dust works well in a dry environment, but Delta Dust is the best where there is any sign of moisture. Delta Dust is a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide dust that is water proof.
One limitation of this control method is that the dust must be placed directly onto the pathway used by the ants. If, for example, the dust is placed on the floor plate and the ants are using an electrical conduit located three inches above the plate as their pathway, control will not be attained. This means simply that dust is an excellent tool, but should be used along with other control methods, not as a "stand alone" carpenter ant eliminator.
Another problem with using dusts is their sensitivity to high moisture conditions. Dusts have a tendency to cake or crust when they get damp. This makes them ineffective since ants can then walk across them without picking any up on their bodies. Only Delta Dust is water proof.
Spot Treatments of Infested Wood Spot treating infested wood with Bora-Care will quickly eliminate a localized carpenter ant infestation. (Carpenter ants do not actually eat or consume wood as do worker termites but they do carry wood particles in their jaws while building or maintaining their nest galleries.) Whenever practical, inject Bora-Care directly into the carpenter ant galleries. However, it is important to treat an entire infested area in order to reduce the possibility of colony relocation. A frequent problem encountered with carpenter ants is the fragmentation of a colony when subjected to a pesticide. Bora-Care, like many other pesticides, is repellent to carpenter ants and may cause them to avoid treated areas and seek out untreated wood. The best treatment method consists of not only treating the infested area, but also treating all wood susceptible to attack. This would include an entire crawl space, wall or attic showing any signs of damage. All bare wood should be sprayed to the point of wetness. Confined areas can be treated using a foaming device to apply pesticides and liquid foamer or fogging device (foaming is best) but heavily infested wood should be directly sprayed either before or after fogging or foaming.
Treating Infested Foam Panels Carpenter ants will occasionally infest foam insulation panels around foundations and under stucco and other types of siding. Carpenter ant infestations in foam may be treated by spraying the infested area, if accessible, or by drilling and injecting diluted Bora-Care directly into ant galleries. To foam inside wall voids, hollow block or other such areas, use Termitafoam. This product turns your insecticide into a shaving cream type solution which helps disperse your pesticides into those hard to reach areas. To learn more about foaming, go to our Termitafoam article. To foam inside wall voids you will need Bora-Care, Termitafoam and our Professional Foamer.
Baits
The newest and most efficient method of controlling carpenter ants is by using baits. Baits work by decreasing the population of carpenter ants in an area, thus reducing their potential for entering a structure. Advance Carpenter Ant Bait (also available in bulk ant bait containers), Niban Granular Bait and Niban-FG Fine Granular Bait are carpenter ant baits which can be used for both interior and exterior applications. Maxforce Carpenter Ant Bait Gel is the fastest for indoor ant colonies.
Note: One of the quickest ways to destroy the effectiveness of any bait is to contaminate it with another pesticide. Never treat the same area with both a spray and a bait at the same time. If you must use a pesticide spray, wait at least two weeks after application before beginning your baiting program. And never use the same containers, measuring cups or dusters for both baits and contact pesticides. A little bit of pesticide residue can contaminate a lot of bait!
Exterior Baiting
A primary objective in an exterior baiting program is to place a band of bait between the satellite colonies in the structure and the main nest. Since there is a continual exchange of workers between satellite colonies and the main nest, you want to give worker ants an opportunity to pick up the bait on their way to and from nesting sites. Since the main nest is frequently in an old log stump within a 300 foot radius of the home, it is important to locate and treat it with the bait. Although following ants and their trails to the main nest can be a tedious task, especially at night, it is well worth the effort. Elimination of the main nest will substantially reduce the risk of re-infestation.
A two to four foot band of Niban Granular Bait or Advance Carpenter Ant Bait should be applied around the perimeter of the structure as well as around the base of all trees, stumps, firewood piles and other locations where carpenter ants may nest. Niban Granular Bait should also be applied along ant trails and other areas where ant activity has been noted.
Unlike other carpenter ant baits, Niban Granular Bait will not degrade from exposure to heat or sunlight and studies have shown that Niban will remain effective through about two inches of rainfall. Re-application of Niban Granular Bait should be made periodically during intervals of very wet weather. Advance Carpenter Ant Bait is the newest bait for carpenter ants that is getting great reviews from pest control operators around the nation.
Interior Baiting
Whenever possible, exterior baiting should be combined with an interior baiting program. This will speed the eradication process and provide residual bait in order to prevent a re-infestation. However, you must use a long-lasting bait like Niban-FG Fine Granular Bait or Advance Carpenter Ant Bait which will remain effective for months rather than days or weeks. Maxforce Carpenter Ant Gel should be incorporated into your ant control program indoors, especially for large or stubborn carpenter ant infestations.
Top of Page
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Preventive Treatments
As previously stated, new construction is particularly susceptible to carpenter ant attack. Un-infested wood properly treated with Bora-Care will be protected from carpenter ant attack. Exterior wood surfaces exposed to rain or snow which have been treated with Bora-Care should also be coated with a water resistant finish such as paint or stain. Interior Bora-Care treated wood surfaces do not need to be coated.
During construction, the application of Niban-FG Fine Granular Bait in wall voids and other confined spaces will help prevent carpenter ant infestations. Re-application of these baits on a periodic basis will significantly reduce the likelihood of carpenter ants establishing a satellite colony within a structure. |
|
ANTS
FLIES
COCKROACHES
RODENTS
SPIDERS
BOXELDER BUGS
BUMBLE BEES
CARPENTER ANTS
CARPENTER BEES
MOTHS
CRICKETS
FIRE ANTS
FIREBRATS
FLEAS
FRUIT FLIES
MILLIPEDES
MICE
RATS
MOLES
MOSQUITOES
MOTHS
BEETLES
POWDERPOST BEETLES
SQUIRRELS
|
